Measuring CPU temperature - "Future-proof system"
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thread starter garycheng17 Jun 19 2010 + PM | QUOTE | PERMALINK | REPORT
Can anyone recommend me a program that measures the temperature of my CPU and/or other components? I am looking to build a liquid-cooled PC for several reasons: -ability to overclock to great lengths -efficient in terms of power usage (there are exceptions) -virtually QUIET (currently, I ordered a new power supply because my cheap old one hisses and produces a high-pitched noise), also, there are at least 6 fans in my Antec 900 case (2 for a motherboard and a large fan for the huge TRUE heatsink I use, by Thermaltake) -overall, it will reduce the weight of my system (I am afraid that over time, the huge heatsink for the CPU will actually wear away the screws on the motherboard attached to the case, because my computer stands vertically and the heatsink may put too much weight on the system When I get a job, I want to be able to build the "perfect" budget system that will be future-proof for many years to come (though, with technology advancing so fast, it is near impossible and is a waste of money) As a result, I only plan to purchase the "aesthetics" of the system until I am able to get a job to buy the actual components (I'm not legally able to get a job yet due to my age). This means that I can purchase a case, keyboard/mouse, a mouse pad, headset, speakers, and possibly a monitor - these products are least likely to change drastically over time such that it is "outdated." I am a type of person that only buys computer parts if they are on sale (I am very conservative about my money, as I don't have a job yet nor an allowance). Recently, I found this deal: http://slickdeals.net/permadeal/35634/corsair-h50-cpu-liquid-cooler for $60 after entering a code. I don't think this is truly liquid cooling, but it seems like a cheap investment to lower CPU temps. However, I'm afraid that if I buy and use the Corsair liquid cooling CPU device, it will not last to the next generation of CPUs (as in, socket size will change and it won't be used anymore). Can you guys (those who use liquid cooling components) recommend a safe and reliable liquid cooling alternative that can cool the entire PC? Since liquid cooling is not as popular, are there sets of liquid cooling components that are considered the "best" of liquid cooling from the consumer standpoint? Also, are there components you guys can recommend, such as a PC case you have always wished you wanted or that you find is "best"? I know this all sounds to ambitious and idealistic for me, but if I am to spend quite a bit of money (~$1,000, I don't think I should spend any more than that as I will need to support myself when I get a job...) $1,000 is a lot of money for someone who builds computer and takes the time to research their components and wait for discounts/rebates. besides the Corsair liquid cooling CPU device, I am also looking into http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=15411&csid=_22. Of course, I won't be able to purchase it now, but I think that this huge cas
BrokenLime 06/24/10 + PM | QUOTE | PERMALINK | REPORT
[quote] Mejust : > If destroying parts is due to the coolant liquid, I'll point out that anyone who builds such a system should use demineralized water, so it doesn't conduct electricity. >That RAM you listed doesn't need those speeds. I'd opt for lower speeds cause it's cheaper and RAM being faster isn't really noticeable. > You don't need a 700W for that setup. I'd say 500W should be enough, not taking overvolting into account. [/quote] Demineralized water will become quickly demineralized if tubes become loose and spill onto dusty computer parts. You use demineralized water so you don't corrode your waterblocks or get buildup; not to protect your parts from spillage. PC1600 is the sweet spot of RAM. It's barely more expensive than other types of RAM while being more "high-end". I was speaking in general terms regarding power supplies. Yeah, you definitely could go with less though. Not many many manufacturers produce modular supplies for smaller voltages, however.
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skye09 06/24/10 + PM | QUOTE | PERMALINK | REPORT
How could you not put PCP&C on your list in order of "1337ness"? PCP&C as well as Corsair should be at the top, with loltec removed. Yes, many OEMs rebadge Seasonics, but how many of those OEMs lines are exceptional in general? Ive seen some pretty crappy TTs and Antecs, with garbage rail distribution and crap efficiency. PCP&C and Corsair are definitely the best bets when buying a PSU.
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1337pope + PM | QUOTE | PERMALINK | REPORT
Alright, I've read through the majority of the posts made on this thread, and here are some comments that I would like to make, First of all, I would suggest the CM 690 II as your case. It's suitable for water cooling, as you can fit a thick radiator and fans in push pull on the bottom, like a Black Ice GTX, Thermochill PA120.2, or an XSPC RX dual radiator. The top can mount a black ice GT stealth radiator as well. But, you have to work with your budget a little bit. Watercooling is quite expensive, and if you want to do a decent cpu loop, then I would be looking at around 200-250 dollars, and this is for the low end of the spectrum. If you're going to go all out for performance, then you would be looking at around 500 dollars. If you want to do some research on water cooling, visit realredraider.com It's probably the most knowledgable watercooling site I know. Also, don't buy from performance pcs, frozencpu, or dangerden unless it's a last resort. Sidewindercomputers and jab-tech are probably the only good stores that I would buy from. But if you don't want to spend this much money on watercooling, then don't get that stupid corsair h50. The fan is pretty loud, and you can get better performance from something like a noctua nhd-14 Some watercooling manufacturers I would recommend are watercool e.k., e.k. waterblocks, thermochill, and xspc. I would stay away from dangerden, the feser company, and koolance. As for audio, if all you want to do is game, then I would suggest going for the Audio Technica AD700 headphones. They have a great soundstage, as you can pick up any of the movements in any game accurately. However, if you're listening to music, it has one disadvantage: bass. The mids and highs are crisp and clear, but the bass is just lacking. If you can afford a little more, then the industry standard Sennheiser HD555's would also suffice. They're great all around monitoring headphones, and they have that distinctive sweetness that all sennheisers have. Just a word of caution: don't fall into the 7.1/5.1 gaming headphones garbage. The drivers that the headphones use don't actually support the headphone, as there is only one speaker, thus the surround sound is purely a gimmick. The 5.1, referring to 5 speakers and 1 subwoofer, and virtually absent from all of these headphones, besides the psyko audio headphone, which is ridiculously expensive. As for speakers, I wouldn't get any. Just use your headphones. They tend to be more accurate during games, and have a crisper audio signiture. Edit: Pen14, you make some good points about cooling, but it's just that you won't need to have aluminum with any other metal in your system. You can definitely run mixed metals, but just don't add aluminum. Nickel, chrome, copper, gold, silver, and brass should have no problems in a loop. And as for the coolant you suggested, never use water wetter. The extra additive will actually decrease the specific heat capacity, thus reducing your cooling potential. The onl
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